Trailing edges double flush riveted. I used the jig I made for the rudder trailing edge which has the same spacings to ensure the right hand trailing edge stayed true whilst riveting.
I partially set the rivets with a normal flat set then finished them off with the special Cleaveland angled set. The elastic band keeps the sets aligned when squeezing. This turned out really nicely and the rivets fill the dimple as described by Vans. The trailing edge is straight!
Next job was to bend the piano wire for the trim tab hinge. I just popped it in the vice and finished the final bend with the soft hammer. If fits neatly but I won’t safety wire it just yet as I’m sure it will need to be removed for painting.
Final task for the trim tab was to wire up the motor. I have received my Molex crimps from RS and armed with a bit of YouTube knowledge, I cracked on with wiring the pins. I also purchased a set of wire strippers from RS as I had the feeling my B&Q ones wouldn’t be up to the task – I would have been right as the trim motor wires are very thin. Hardest part was aligning the pins to get them in the plug. Outer plug silicon sealed.
Trim motor installed and actuator connected. I tested the motor with a 9v battery borrowed from the workshop smoke detector. It works fine but I have about 0.5mm of play coming from the clevis pin. Not sure if this matters but will put it to the Vans forum.
Next and almost final task is rolling the leading edges and then installing the counterbalance weights which are ready to go. Not looking forward to the leading edges as I have some strange inflammatory thing going on and my wrists are a touch on the painful side. When I did the leading edges on the rudder I lost the feeling in my thumbs for about 6 weeks! There is a certain amount of suffering required in this quest…
Not sure if this matters but will pit it to the Vans forum.
I am sure you mean put and not pit.
Too mich time on your hands?