The elevators and trim tab are proving to be a bit of a marathon. Since the last enthralling episode I have been mainly deburring, countersinking and dimpling. I received the modified male dimple and reduced diameter countersink from Cleaveland Tools which had made a couple of the jobs a lot easier.
The trailing edges of the elevators have a crease which means that a normal dimple would overlap the crease. Vans suggest that you grind down a male 426-3 dimple but I only had one so I took the easy route and ordered one from the States. This worked well and can be used whenever space is tight for a normal dimple. At the same time I also ordered a reduced #40 countersink which allows you to countersink the trailing edge wedges on both sides but remain perpendicular to the wedge surface. I found, like the rudder, it was easier to countersink the holes by holding the wedges and making sure the cage was parallel to the wedge surface. Cleaveland suggest using Boelube when countersinking to stop the pilot of the countersink wearing due to the angle of attack. This worked well and the countersinks look nice. By the way, good old Royal Mail charged me £8.00 to handle the adding of £9.00 of import VAT – rip off Britain as they say.
Next up was assembling the trim tab and final drilling the overlap tabs. The manual says to dimple first and the final drill with a #33 drill. Luckily I had a 6" #33 drill bit but I found this a bit strange. I'm sure the reason will become obvious. Next stage is cleaning , etching and priming all the inner workings. There are a lot of parts…
By the way, if you buy a c-frame dimpler don't follow the instructions to make a dimpling table to the dimensions they suggest. I did this without thinking and have a lovely dimpling table with adjustable corner feet but it is too big to fit on my bench which means all dimpling is done on the floor – not good. You can see it near the step ladder.